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听闻国际城开了一家新的餐厅,虽然对国际城隔三差五就冒出新馆子的情形司空见惯,但“次坞打面”这个奇怪的名字,的确让好奇心强的我比较在意,更何况对于嗜面如痴的我来说,“面馆”本身就已经有足够的吸引力。
位于国际城B区的次坞打面,环境简单到没什么好说的,新店开业,也并没有做太多宣传,靠着口口相传,传到了我这里。让我介意的奇怪店名也有了解释——“次坞”原来是一个地名,地属浙江诸暨,却与杭州交界,虽是诸暨特色面,却在杭州发扬光大。然而尴尬的是,作为一个杭州人,我却是第一次听说。
“次坞打面”是有典故的,能扯到朱元璋云云,不过对于老饕来说,传说没什么屁用。倒是浙江民间的排行榜,已经把次坞打面封为浙江十大传统面之一。
说到中国面,重庆小面、四川担担面、兰州拉面都脍炙人口,可在全国范围内,浙江的面好像没什么名气,这也怪江浙地带一直以鱼米之乡示人,不以面食为主,但实则是被低估的。作为口味刁钻的浙江人,怎么可能端不出一碗好面呢!
浙江的面往往有两大法宝,一是鲜笋,二是雪菜,集大成者便是杭派名面片儿川。笋和雪菜都是吊鲜味的上品,有的面也会加入河鲜,一切皆以“鲜”为重,这是江浙饮食中特有的腔调。浙江的面也往往不浊、不腻,带着“鲜”气,这股“鲜”气我很难形容,就好像粤菜里讲究的锅气,难以言喻却已入境。
片儿川,杭派面食的代表作(网图)
次坞打面的面,是打出来的。用一根长得有点夸张的擀面杖,将面团反复打压成了薄薄的面皮,再折叠起来切出面条。这种做法使面条极富韧性,口感爽弹,不会因为久泡而变软。
次坞打面的制作工艺
一碗面好不好,最重要的是看汤,很多浙江人吃面前先喝一口汤,汤对了,面也八九不离十了。次坞打面带着浙江面的“鲜”气,以秘制的高汤做底,不加一点味精。而汤头浓郁的秘诀来自“面菜同煮”,次坞打面要求两只锅同时操作,一锅沸水煮面条,一锅炒菜做浇头,然后煮好的面条立刻捞出倒入菜锅同煮后端出,令整碗面入味三分,鲜浓并出。
特色次坞打面
特色次坞打面其实就是店里的“高配版”面条,一碗面就囊括了多种浇头。带虾、带肉、带皮卷,“什么都有”就是特色次坞打面啦。
黄鱼面
雪菜配黄鱼是非常江浙的吃法,用于面条烹饪也是非常流行。黄鱼肉少但嫩滑鲜美,卤子搭配恰当,除了吃起来比较麻烦,并没有其他缺点。而雪菜是店家自己腌制的,不是调料包。
片儿川
能在迪拜看到这三个字足以让所有杭州人眼神发光。可惜的是迪拜无鲜笋,店家只能用笋干喂得汤,再配以茭白代替笋的口感。每次老板也会很诚实地告诉食客用的不是鲜笋。虽然无法达到片儿川的极致,但迪拜能吃上这一口已经足够感动了。
西施豆腐
不仅是面,次坞打面也烹饪一些地方菜品,比如西施豆腐,这是浙江诸暨名菜。说是豆腐,其实是一道以豆腐为基底的羹汤。汤宽汁厚、滑润鲜嫩,作为古代四大美女,西施出自浙江诸暨,顾取其名。
卤蛋和豆干
每一碗面我都要配上1个卤蛋和2块豆干,虽然都是红烧卤子,但不同地方人家做也带着各自的差别,毕竟家乡的味道是难以忘却的。
辣椒酱
特别推荐次坞打面的辣椒酱,若是能拿出来零售我都愿意买上几瓶。作为一个不怎么食辣的浙江馆子,能做出那么带劲的辣椒酱我也是服了,且连辣酱也做出鲜味,可见浙江人对“鲜”的崇高追求。
就面的来说,对于已经充斥着西北面和四川面的迪拜,代表浙江的次坞打面可谓一股清流,在无法烹饪猪肉的限制下,口味上也表现出了不俗的水准。谁说浙江无好面,你来试试就知道。
次坞打面
人均消费:15-35迪拉姆
订餐电话:0505929569 / 055 3519922
微信号:cwdm0553519922
地址:国际城中国区B03(原联华超市旁边)
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