– 写在前面 –

本文写于2020年1月初，当时还没有疫情一说
却因疫情的突然到来而迟迟未作发表
近日偶然从草稿箱拾起重读
全文未出现“疫情”二字居然让人觉得吊诡
仅仅一年的变化，甚至比十年积累的还要多
与其梦回十年，或许更多人期盼着梦回一年吧
总之，先让这篇时隔许久的“吊诡”文章重见天日

当2020年1月4日，世界最高楼哈利法塔打出了十年庆的灯光秀，让我突然有些许恍惚。

我来迪拜有十年了。十年似乎没有那么长，时间走得太快好像弹指一挥间。十年却又真的那么长，多少路还没走完却已物是人非。

就像进入2010年时，我们早已遗忘2000年的”千年虫”危机，在迈入2020年后，2010年所发生的许多事，也宛如存放于上世纪的古物随记忆封存。

我曾和好朋友李华飞先生共同写过一个长篇记录文《迪拜华人简史》，以编年的方式，记录了迪拜华人从无到有，从简至繁的过程。当我梳理2010年的时候，我发现那一年对迪拜和迪拜华人真的太重要了，称得上是迪拜极为重要的里程年，所以很想单独拎出来和大家聊聊，让我们能够在后2020的赛博朋克，回顾2010的蒸汽世界。


金融危机 | 寒冬下亦有温度

2008年美国爆发了次贷危机，这场危机迅速从美国扩展到全球，演变为全球性的金融危机。2009年这场危机才蔓延到迪拜，对迪拜产生了显而易见的影响，一时间，拔地而起的高楼戛然停滞，被抛弃的豪车无人问津。一场来自金融界的沙尘暴，为迪拜的前景蒙上了一层厚沙，让这颗中东珍珠忽然间变得黯淡。

▲ 2010，烂尾楼是迪拜的一道“风景线”

2010年，在这个迪拜最艰难的时候，世界最高楼如期落成揭幕，为迪拜挽回了些许信心。而当原本应当名为”迪拜塔”的它，最终被命名为”哈利法塔”时，我亦感受到了迪拜当时的窘迫感。（*哈利法是阿布扎比酋长的名字，正是当年阿布扎比的金援，才让迪拜惊险渡过金融危机。）

▲ 2010年前的Downtown，朴实无华且枯燥

2010年，这场危机的余波还在波及微微颤抖的迪拜，满城的烂尾楼是对那个时期迪拜的刻板印象。在经济上，迪拜遭遇了寒冬，但在迪拜人的生活上，这场余波所带来的温度，也温暖着许多人，成为大家津津乐道的回忆。

虽然迪拜的金融、房地产受到了金融危机的重创，但却并未撬动当时许多迪拜人赖以生存的贸易。反而随着2010年迪拜房地产的一蹶不振，迪拜的租金都出现了腰斩式的暴跌，留下的迪拜人终于能够从高昂的租金中获得解脱，节约下来的成本，许多人升级了自己的住宿环境和生活方式，从”床位”换成了”单间”，从”单间”换成了”套房”，甚至购置车辆，这进一步促进了整个城市的迁徙和流动性。于此同时，金融危机所带来的房价暴跌，也让当时许多迪拜人产生了购房置业的念头，为随即而来的购房潮打下了基础。


阿拉伯之春 | 他国之乱，迪拜之幸

2010年，没有人会想到发生在突尼斯的一起自焚事件，会彻底改变阿拉伯世界的命运 — 这起事件的火星点燃了阿拉伯之春的革命火炬。埃及、利比亚、叙利亚等阿拉伯国家纷纷陷入一片混沌之中，即便在十年后的今天，一些国度仍然未能恢复和平与安定。

▲ 十年前谁TM能想到，突尼斯城管的一次日常执勤，最终导致好几个阿拉伯国家的集体报废。这就是…………蝴蝶效应，同学们做好笔记了么？

而彼时的迪拜，因其政治稳定，拥有85%的外国人口，安全且居民满意度高等优势，在这个中东乱世中独善其身，成为阿拉伯世界为数不多的避风港。一时间来自他国的热钱流入，人口增加，迪拜仿佛又出现了昔日欣欣向荣的迹象。可能连迪拜自己也没有想到，居然能够如此快地从金融危机的阴霾中恢复元气。

▲ 2010年的迪拜，local们觉得 不如跳舞~革命倒不如跳舞~

经济回暖的风向标首先令迪拜房地产业闻风而动，虽然房价还在谷底徘徊，租金却因人口增加先行上扬，形成极具诱惑力的租金回报率，市场信心的激增引发了2011-2012年的一波购房潮，”买房”几乎成为当时迪拜全民级的讨论话题。曾经的烂尾楼也纷纷再度开工，一个接一个的新楼盘蜂拥而至，甚至影响着迪拜往后十年来的楼市走向。


迪拜旅游 | 黄金时代正式开启

2009年9月15日，中国与阿联酋旅游目的地国协议正式生效，阿联酋正式成为中国公民组团出境旅游的目的。在协议生效的第二天，一个由730位华人组成的首发团就抵达迪拜，吹响了迪拜旅游黄金时代的号角。

▲ 2009年9月16日，由中国国际旅行社、中国旅行社、青年旅行社和上海春秋旅行社共同组织的上海首发团共抵达迪拜国际机场。时任迪拜总领事高有祯与首发团合影留念。

2009年所吹响的号角，在2010年得到了全面布局。迪拜旅游业让迪拜华人自2000年贸易热以来首次看到了另一个新的风口。从2010年开始，无数中国旅行社密集涌现，即便如此，也满足不了国人赴迪拜的旅游热情，此后一年胜过一年的中国游客数量，让当时迪拜的旅行社和旅游资源，一直处于供不应求的市场环境。

▲ 2009年某网站对迪拜旅游的宣传文案，6599人民币的团费在当年已经是超低价，若放到十年后，你大爷会对你说：别逗~这个价格我可以去三次！

在2010年间，来迪拜旅游的团费普遍在7000-15000人民币/人之间，当时的从业者万万不会想到，十年后的迪拜旅游团费居然会变得如此”廉价”，想必如今许多旅游从业者至今一直怀念着十年前的黄金时代吧。


华人结构 | 新鲜血液涌入迪拜

2010年，迪拜旅游的黄金时代开启后，中国游客真正让迪拜的商家见识到了中国庞大的消费力，迪拜商业对中国市场的倾斜策略正在酝酿，首当其冲的便是为华人带来了大量的就业机会。

在2010-2012前后，除了大量华人开始流向旅游业，包括阿联酋航空、迪拜免税店、各大酒店、各大零售及奢侈品牌，也开始大量招募华人工作人员，为迎合庞大的中国市场做好人力储备。

▲ 迪拜免税店是迪拜最早大规模引入华人导购的本土公司，多年来持续保持“迪拜华人雇员最多的非华人公司”头衔。


这些大公司大集团向华人抛出的橄榄枝，往往代表着更优渥的收入和更体面的工作方式，同时也代表着更高的素质要求和更国际化的职场意识。这种职业的供需关系，让年轻群体所持有的筹码有了兑现的机会。这吸引了许多高学历高素质的年轻人，从中国或世界其他地区来到迪拜，成为迪拜华人社群中的一员。

▲ 2010年，阿联酋航空的美人儿里就已经有了许多中国Face，并在其宣传资料里C位出道。

这些不断流入迪拜的新鲜血液，在一定程度上重塑了迪拜华人社群的结构，从早期的贸易、工程集中型，逐步分化出旅游、零售、服务等几大华人职业群体。也逐渐改变了华人社群的氛围，稀释了原本的单调陈腐，为社群注入了更多青春活力。


华人生活 | 过去的”符号”一一消逝

>>”大家”：以床位为单位，由职业二房东管理，促成多个陌生人共住一室，以分摊高昂住宿费的住宿模式。

>>”网络电话卡”：通过网络技术手段，提供从迪拜拨打中国长途电话的服务，通话资费非常低廉。

>>”黑车”：针对华人无车一族，提供迪拜或跨酋长国的交通服务。

>>”家庭餐馆”：为了规避店面租金及营业许可，隐匿在居民楼里的中餐厅。

>>”伊朗飞签”：为了更新迪拜旅游签或迪拜长签的一种出入境方式，当年飞签目的地多为伊朗。

在2010年前来到迪拜华人，想必大多都听说过或亲身体验过以上的华人服务。虽然这些华人服务基本都游走在法律的边缘，但在当年确实非常务实地为迪拜华人提供了大量帮助，与华人的生活息息相关。

但在2010之后，由于迪拜大环境和政策的一些变化，这些曾经的华人生活”符号”被一一击碎。金融危机所带来的租金暴跌让”大家”不再具备经营优势；旅游的兴起，使广大”黑车”司机立即投入旅游业的怀抱；来自电信公司的打压，让大部分”网络电话卡”几乎无法使用；越来越多正规中餐厅开业以及越来越高的经营风险，令”家庭餐馆”不再具备舒适的生存空间；迪拜旅游签制度的变化，让”伊朗飞签”不再是最优解……

▲ 2010年以前的迪拜生活看着挺丧，但内心充满希望。十年后的迪拜生活看着充满希望，但内心都挺丧。

虽然飞签”业务如今依旧存在，但目的地早已从伊朗换成更方便的阿曼。即便目前依然有极少量的”大家”和”家庭餐馆”依旧存在，但其模式早已式微。这些名词也慢慢被迪拜人遗忘，成为老迪拜人们的集体回忆。


华人发展 | 迎来”大航海时代”

经过以上变化的综合累积和互相影响，在2010-2012年，迪拜贸易利润的增长已进入拐点，旅游业正在朝气蓬勃，高知的年轻人登上舞台，迪拜华人迎来了”大航海时代”。

迪拜华人首次从传统贸易的”据守”，开始主动探索迪拜的其他可能性，思考全新的发展机会和发展模式。迪拜华人社群逐渐从单一的贸易结构向多样性多元化发展。2009年迪拜地铁的运营也同时打破了华人空间上的局限，华人社群开始把目光和脚步印在迪拜的每一寸土地上。

2010年的哈利法塔落成是迪拜的里程碑，2010年也同样是迪拜华人的里程碑。在”大航海时代”下，迪拜华人开始在不同的领域发展突破，为现如今的迪拜打下了坚实基础。

2010年，影响后十年华人生活的温州超市旗舰店于国际城开业了；2010年，影响后十年迪拜旅游业发展的海外旅行社成立了；2010年，影响后十年国际城餐饮发展的山图美食开业了；2010年，影响后十年迪拜华文资讯获取方式的迪拜人传媒也刚刚起步了……

▲ 如果你十年前见过这个页面，那我要轻唤你一声 —— 老铁！

梦回十年，当时我才刚来到迪拜，还是一个大学刚毕业的青涩小伙，如今已经成为一个有两娃的油腻腊肉。十年的威力很大，没有人知道十年后我们会炸出些什么东西来？再多的焦虑和算计也无法改变时间的长度和它对这个世界所产生的影响。如果上一个十年你过得不好，别太在意，因为在下一个十年，你可能会过得更闹心！活好当下，就是你对未来最好的礼物。

十年之前
我不认识你，你不属于我
十年之后
我们是朋友，还可以问候

足矣！

*本文部分内容引用自《迪拜华人简史》
*本文写于2020年1月初，当时疫情还未发生
作者毛一鸣

52 Replies to “梦回十年 | 重温迪拜2010，品品内味儿”

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